Faport International: Types of Leather

Aniline Leather:

This leather is also called Natural Leather, Pure Leather, Naked Leather or Unprotected Leather. Aniline leathers are colored with transparent dye, enabling you to see the actual surface grain and markings. Aniline leather has little or no protective treatments applied to them. A spray with a wax finish is occasionally sprayed on Aniline leather to give it short term water repellency. For care and maintenance purposes you need to know if the surface has been brushed. If the surface feels velvety, it has been brushed. If it feels smooth, it has not been brushed. This is where it becomes difficult to distinguish between Nubuck and Aniline leather. Some ways that you can identify Aniline leather are:

· Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it scratches to a lighter color, it is Aniline. Nubuck will also do the same.

· Wet your finger and lightly rub it into the leather to see if it darkens. With Aniline it should darken lightly but dry invisibly.

Semi-Aniline Leather:

Semi-Aniline leather is also called Finished Leather, Semi-Aniline Leather, Everyday Leather, Pigmented Leather or Painted Leather. Semi-Aniline leathers have combined the best aspects of a natural product and tannery technology to create a leather product that is more uniform in appearance and color. Protected leathers are the most common leathers and purchased by consumers more than the other categories, because of its resilience. Semi-Aniline leather has a finish applied to the leather surface that makes the leather more resilient to the rigors of heavy use. The pigments and finish that is applied to protect the leather also will affect the softness. The more finish that is applied, the less soft the leather will be.

Some ways that you can identify Semi-Aniline leather are:

· Lightly scratch the surface to see if it leaves a lighter color scratch mark. If it does not leave a lighter scratch mark (the color remains the same) then this has a protective finish on the leather.

· Use soft cleaner and clean the leather. The cleaner should stay on top of the finish and should not darken the leather.

· With protected leather the surface should have some sort of sheen to it.

Nubuck Leather:

Nubuck is top-grain cattle rawhide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. It is resistant to wear, and may be white or coloured. Nubuck was used by cowboys as it was light and comfortable.

Nubuck is similar to suede. It differs in that suede is created from the inner side of a hide, whereas nubuck is created from the outer side of a hide, giving it more strength and thickness along with a fine grain. It is generally more expensive than suede, and must be coloured or dyed heavily to cover up the sanding and stamping process.

Nubuck Leather is also called Distressed Leather, Bomber Leather or Suede. These leathers are actually Aniline leathers. The surface on this type of leather has been brushed leaving the texture similar to velvet on leather. This type of leather is often confused with Suede. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather and Nubuck is derived from an effect that is done to the grain side, which makes this leather incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than the Aniline leathers.

Nubuck Leather and Aniline Leather are very difficult to distinguish from each other. The most difficult to identify are the leather products which are in the distressed leathers category or the leathers that have a waxed finish applied. Nubuck leathers can have an endless variety of embossed patterns and color applied to them and can also reflect the natural leather grain, thus making Nubuck very popular in the fashion world.

• Deer Skin is one of the toughest leathers, partially due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats. Deerskin has been prized in many societies including indigenous Americans. Most modern deer skin is no longer procured from the wild, with "deer farms" breeding the animals specifically for the purpose of their skins. Deer skin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment such as kendo bogu, as well as high quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. It commands a high price due to its relative rarity and proven durability

Suede is a type of leather with a napped finish. However, it can also refer to a similar napped or brushed finish on many kinds of fabrics. The term comes from the French "gants de Suède", which literally means "gloves of Sweden".

Suede leather is made from the under side of the skin, primarily lamb, although goat, pig, calf and deer are commonly used. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are also sueded but due to the fiber nature have a shaggy nap. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, suede is less durable but softer than standard ("full-grain") leather. Its softness, thinness, and pliability make it suitable for clothing and delicate uses; suede was originally used for women's gloves. Suede leather is also popular in upholstery, shoes, bags, and other accessories, and as a lining for other leather products. Due to its textured nature and open pores, suede may become dirty and absorb liquids quickly. Suede should be cleaned as per manufacturer's directions.

Cowhide is the natural product/by-product of the food industry from cattle. Used in items such as shoes and leather jackets, it ensures that less of an animal is wasted post-slaughter.

Once a cow is slaughtered, the skin is removed. It is then selected in the raw state, at the very first moment when it is salted. It is organized by size and color. In the tannery, a traditional hair on hide tanning method is employed to ensure that the hide is soft, and less susceptible to odor and moulting. It ensures that the cowhide will last longer. It is then naturally dried and the best hides are separated from the rest, with the ones that cannot be used in full as decorative items separated to be used as patchwork rugs. These are usually those with damage (for example cuts and other injuries to the skin during the life of the animal) that causes the skin to tear post drying.

Nappa leather or Napa leather is full-grain leather, typically dyed, made from unsplit kid-lamb- or sheep-skin by tanning with salts of chromium or aluminium sulfate, and noted for softness and durability. It is often used in high-quality leather products such as high-end furniture and accessories such as wallets and luggage. One example would be interiors of luxury vehicles.

Nappa leather, or Napa leather, is chrome-tanned and is extremely soft and supple and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods.

The following are not 'true' leathers, but contain leather material. Depending on jurisdiction, they may still be labeled as "Genuine Leather."

Bonded leather , or "reconstituted Leather", is not really a true leather but a man-made material composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of 'true' leather at a fraction of the cost. Bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently. One example of bonded leather use is in Bible covers.

Bycast leather is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry and recently was adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was strong, but expensive. Most of the Bycast used today is very strong and durable product. The result is a slightly stiffer product that is cheaper than top grain leather but has a much more consistent texture and is easier to clean and maintain.

The vast majority of leather is sold according to its area. The leather is placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines and its surface area is determined. The unit of measurement is square meter, square decimeter or square foot. The thickness is also important, and this is measured using a thickness gauge (the unit of measurement is millimeters, e.g., 1.8 mm is a standard thickness for a school shoe).

In some parts of the world, top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion: 1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0.4 mm).

Hence, leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2.8 to 3.2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimeters.

Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface.

There are two other descriptions of leather commonly used in specialty products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage.

Belting leather is a full-grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy-weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather

Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (Bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. For example, in one operation, leather finish is applied to one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of suede.

Patent leather is leather that has been given a high gloss, shiny finish. The original process was developed by Newark-based inventor Seth Boyden in 1818 with commercial manufacture beginning September 20, 1819. His process used a linseed oil–based lacquer coating. Modern patent leather usually has a plastic coating.

Patent leather is sometimes confused with poromeric imitation leathers such as DuPont's Corfam and Kuraray Co.'s Clarino which are manmade materials with a similar glossy appearance.

Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattle hide. The tanning process converts the putrescible skin into a durable, long-lasting and versatile natural material for various uses. Leather is an important material with many uses and together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology.

The material leather is one of the strongest materials used; it was so strong that back in the ancient days, leather was one of the key materials in making armors. Leathers may be strong, but leather have a very rough, which is why leathers are only used on furniture or other things, but there is a type of leather that can be worn.

Suede most commonly refers to a type of leather with a soft, napped finish; however, it can also refer to a similar napped or brushed finish on many kinds of fabrics. Suede leather is made from the inner splits of a side of leather, usually cow, although doe suede and pig suede are available. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, suede is less durable but softer than standard ("full-grain") leather.

Suede leathers are commonly used as pillow cases or most commonly are gloves. But suede’s are not only used by us, suede can also be used on dog beds such as the suede dog beds.

Suede leather is made from the under side of the skin, primarily lamb, although goat, pig, calf and deer are commonly used. Splits from thick hides of cow and deer are also suede but due to the fiber nature have a shaggy nap. Because suede does not include the tough exterior skin layer, suede is less durable but softer than standard ("full-grain") leather. Its softness, thinness, and softness make it suitable for clothing and delicate uses; suede was originally used for women's gloves. Suede leather is also popular in upholstery, shoes, bags, and other accessories, and as a lining for other leather products. Due to its textured nature and open pores, suede may become dirty and adsorb liquids quickly. Suede should be cleaned as per manufacturer's directions. Modern tanning improvements have made waterproof and stain-proof suede leather available. Suede leather cord is a popular trim, lacing, and jewelry material

Suede fabrics are manufactured with a brushed or napped finish, resembling suede leather. Ultra suede is a trademarked term for a microfiber plush with a hand resembling the softest suede, but which is more durable, and can be made resistant to liquid, stains, and crushing. It is commonly used in upholstery and fine accessories, or in clothing and shoes. Persons who enjoy suede's texture but who prefer a non-animal product, or an easier-care fabric, find Ultra suede an expensive but luxurious alternative

Micro suede is a newly popular microfiber knit blend fabric; it has a soft finish, but is easily distinguishable from actual suede leather. It has a great deal of stretch, and is very popular in upholstery as well as garments. Micro suede is less durable than suede leather but is commonly found in accessories and especially shoes.
Suede silk, suede cotton and similar suede fabrics are brushed, sanded or chemically treated for extra softness. 'Suede' yarns are generally thick and plush, intending to resemble suede leather cord

Artificial leather

Plastic leather

The term pleather ("plastic leather") is a slang term for synthetic leather made out of plastic. A portmanteau of plastic and leather, the term can be either descriptive or derogatory, depending upon the user. Pleather is often used as an inexpensive substitute for leather (the derogatory meaning implies use as a substitute for genuine animal hide to cut costs). Pleather may also be preferred because it is lighter than leather. Others choose to wear synthetic leather as an alternative to real leather citing reasons of animal cruelty. Pleather, being made of plastic, will not decompose as quickly.

Not all pleather are the same. Polyurethane is washable, can be dry-cleaned and allows some air to flow through the garment. PVC pleather in contrast does not "breathe" and is difficult to clean. PVC cannot be dry-cleaned because the cleaning solvents can make the PVC unbearably stiff.

Vegan leather

Vegan Chelsea boots

Vegan Leather is an artificial alternative to traditional leather. It may be chosen for ethical reasons or as a designed material which may have different properties but a similar look to the natural material

Poromeric Imitation Leather

Sometimes referred to as poromerics, poromeric imitation leathers are a group of synthetic 'breathable' leather substitutes made from a plastic coating (usually a polyurethane) on a fibrous base layer (typically a polyester). The term poromeric was coined by DuPont as a derivative of the terms microporous and polymeric. The first poromeric material was DuPont's ill-fated Corfam introduced in 1963 at the Chicago Shoe Show. Newer poromerics include Clarino made by Kuraray Co. of Japan.

Corfam was the centerpiece of the DuPont pavilion at the 1964 New York World's Fair in New York City. Its major advantages over natural leather were its durability and its high gloss finish that could be easily cleaned with a damp cloth. Its disadvantages were its stiffness which did not lessen with wearing and its relative lack of breathability. DuPont manufactured Corfam at its plant in Old Hickory, Tennessee, from 1964 to 1971. After spending millions of dollars marketing the product to shoe manufacturers, DuPont withdrew Corfam from the market in 1971 and sold the rights to a company in Poland. Corfam is mainly remembered as a textbook marketing disaster.

Corfam is still used today in some products, an example being certain types of equestrian saddle girth. Corfam shoes are still very popular in the military and other uniformed professions where shiny shoes are an asset.

Koskin

Koskin is an artificial leather material commonly found in computer laptop cases. It is commonly used in Hewlett-Packard, Targus and Belkin laptop cases, CD wallets, and other consumer goods. It is made to look and feel like authentic leather.

In Swedish, koskinn means cow's skin (ko means cow, skinn means skin), often causing much confusion for consumers.

Leatherette

Leatherette is a form of artificial leather, usually made by covering a fabric base with plastic. The fabric can be made of a natural or a synthetic fibre which is then covered with a soft PVC layer.

Leatherette bound books and 20th century cameras are good examples of leatherette. Leatherette clothing of various kinds (including lingeries) also exist.

A disadvantage of plastic "leatherette" is that it is not porous and does not allow air to pass through it, thus sweat can accumulate if it is used for clothing, car seat coverings, etc. However, one of its primary advantages, especially in cars, is that it requires little maintenance in comparison to leather and does not crack or fade as easily.

During a fire, leatherette may cause additional serious skin damage because it not only burns more vigorously than leather, but can also melt.